Man on fire

Well, my own personal wave demons have come to an abrupt end. The surf was firing last night as were the wnw winds but I completed my dad duties around 7.30pm and went to make peace with the ocean.

Rest bay was looking chunky and nudging 5ft on the sets with plenty of shape despite a pretty strong cross shore wind.

The rain and squall passed over leaving us with blue skies and sunshine and as the minutes ticked by, the wind gradually swung more northerly and lightened considerably.

I picked off a handful of really nice rights and lefts and finally managed to get to grips with my firewire - getting it to bottom turn without spinning out. Result :)

Sven was out there with me and stroked into a few nice ones himself catching one peach of a left around 3ft and clean as a whistle.

I'm finding the firewire nice to use up and around the lip and had a few nice late bashes last night. My bonzer would hang in certain situations but the speed would power me through whereas this board just flies through sections, showering spray as she goes.

I did notice the wind was an issue with such a light board but to be honest, most of the guys out were struggling with it earlier on in the session so I'll hold off on my judgement for the time being..

As the tide pushed in the inside section near the rocks began to work, producing a few lovely looking A frame peaks and super hollow at times. A lone 4-5ft rogue left came my way and sven screamed me in. I made the drop and turned just as the lip pitched out, well over my head as I dropped down into the inside section.

I was already slightly out of control so opted to dodge the lip rather than pull in which was probably a mistake. The lip exploded on the tail of my board catapulting me skywards. I actually felt like I'd been blown up! LOL.

What it felt like to me:


I landed on my fins ass first and then went into the spin cycle before bashing my board once more for luck! And then finally some air :)

We paddled in happy with our lot as the waves began to back off towards high - not classic but not a bad session.

This morning:


Did it all over again this morning only with ESE offshore winds. The waves were 3-4ft and clean but backing off in places but a fair few before work surfers were out. I scored one or two nice rides but I was in and out within 45 mins and on my way to work.

More tomorrow...